[Exmilade]

This is my experience of fitting a Westfalia Detachable Tow Bar to my wife's 6 day old Q2 (so stressful!)
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This is a description of my experience, it is not intended as the only way to do it and I do not accept any responsibility if you follow this procedure and damage your car, parts of it or injure yourself.
I hope I have remembered everything and will add to this section by section.

TOOLS
1. car/auto panel and trim removal tools (search for them on Amazon and you'll see what I mean)
2. 10mm long reach socket 3/8" drive - mine is 50mm long but better if you can find one longer
3. T25 Torx screwdriver/socket bit
4. T30 Torx screwdriver/socket bit
5. SCM-V8 three square splined socket bit
6. 10mm spanner
7. 13mm socket
8. 16mm socket
9. socket set ratchet
10. torque wrench
11. 16mm spanner
12. two small electrician's screwdrivers
13. craft knife
14. masking tape

LIGHT CLUSTER REMOVAL
Firstly remove the black plastic surround between the light cluster and the boot door seal.
They have small tags that hook under the edge of the light cluster - just lift away and out
This will reveal two Torx T25 screws - remove these.
The light cluster is held to the body work by two spigots:
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that push into rubber grommets in the body work:

The removal is described in the vehicle handbook.
Put two layers of masking tape into the gap between the light cluster and the bodywork then slide a wide auto trim panel removal tool between the masking tape and and the light cluster. Gently turn the tool to prise the light cluster away from the bodywork.
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Remove the cable retainer, release the electrical connector and store safely.

 

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Last photo should have been this one explaining how to remove the rear light cluster.
The last photo in the initial post goes above explaining the rubber grommets in the bodywork

 

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This is the area with Light Cluster removed

 

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INTERNAL TRIM REMOVAL
Remove the boot floor panel and store safely.
Firstly remove the rear central plastic trim that surrounds the lock latch plate.
It is retained by four spring clips below the top surface, therefore, to remove it just use your hands and pull it vertically up.
This shows the underside of it:

and this shows the area revealed:

In my case I found that some of the small metal clips came off the plastic trim and remained in the slot in the bodywork.
To remove them I squeezed the two exposed sides together and slid a small electrician screwdriver inside the small area that crosses over (this locks the two sides together) then use the screwdriver to lever it out of the slot in the bodywork.

Next to come out is the plastic trims that give boot floor height adjustment at the lower forward end of the side panel.
Remove the two T30 Torx screws and the panel levers out from the front (small plastic tag is at the back end of the panel).

Using your small electrician screwdriver lever out the centre plastic panel of the cargo tie down loop near the top, then use your V8 three square splined socket unscrew the whole cargo loop assembly.

For the full side panel removal:
Remove the single T25 Torx screw in the top plastic panel.
The cloth part of panel is pulled away from the body work starting at the back lower corner and working up around the door seal, this area is held by the small metal clips you saw in the central rear panel.
This picture shows the inside of the panel to give you an idea of what is behind (noting one of my metal clips broke):

Work you way up and round moving forward and the plastic part of the panel just unclips
continuing around the forward section down along the rear seat belt run.
Finally gently lift the panel to remove the plastic retaining bracket along the bottom centre - this locks onto a stud on the rear wheel arch bodywork.
This is the area revealed:

 

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BUMPER REMOVAL
Underneath remove the four T25 Torx screws (two centre and one on each corner).
Inside the car in each corner you will see long thin threaded studs with a 10mm nut on each - remove the nuts

This photo shows the light shining through the hole:

Then in the rear cross member remove the two large black plastic grommets
this picture shows the location on one side and my socket extension going into the hole revealed:
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THIS IS THE AWKWARD BIT
In the deep hole exposed by the grommet removal there are two more long thin threaded studs just like the ones you have just worked on.
I used my 50mm long 10mm long reach socket that just allowed the extension bar to engage as the threaded stud just came into the 3/8" drive hole.
I unscrewed the nut until it felt like there was no resistance.
Getting the socket out was awkward - I used the magnetic telescopic tool to pull it out.
Then put your finger in and move the nut towards the end of the stud but not off it.
Then use the magnetic telescopic tool to retrieve the nut off the stud.
This picture shows the light coming through the deep recessed hole:

 

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EXTERNAL FIXINGS
Firstly the rear wheel arch trims need to be released.
I managed to pull the rear most section out from the body with my fingers, but, you might want to try using a auto panel removal tool up from the wheel arch area.
This reveals two metal clips into slots - in my case on both sides the clips came off the trims and stayed in the slots - remove and refit to the back of the trim pieces. Also this reveals the rest of the trim is held by circular plastic clips. These all survived and I pulled the trim off back to roughly to where the door starts. Bad photo showing the trim pulled out:

Now remove the three T25 Torx screws that are within the wheel arch area (one being revealed by the removal of the wheel arc trim).
Then remove the four T25 Torx screws underneath - 2 central and one on each corner.

Now, pull the wheel arch liner away from the rear bumper plastic and you need to lever the rear bumper plastic up over the plastic of the under bracket where those three Torx screws go through.
Next, you will see that just on the top corner next to where you have just worked there is a small tag that the bumper plastic hooks over - lever the bumper plastic over the tag. Photo shows the tag with the bumper removed.

Then its just the section between the wheel arch area and the base of the light cluster well.
The bumper plastic is held in a slot by three tags into slots in the bumper plastic. The only way I could work out was to literally just pull it out with my hands. Seems brutal, but, only one slot broke for me luckily. Photo shows the slot and tags in the under bracket with bumper plastic removed.

and these are the slots in the bumper plastic:

 

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Now everything is detached you can lift the bumper clear and store safely - remembering to unplug the connection for the reversing sensors.
This is what you see:

 

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Remove the eight 13mm bolts holding the original metal bar on.
Remove the metal bar and discard - getting the bolts to the holes as per instructions.
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The Westfalia metal structure slides in the apertures exposed by removing the original metal bar.
Push it in as far as it will go.
I found the bolt holes required to secure the Westfalia metal structure had tape over them and then underseal over that, so a craft knife was used to open up the holes. This shows one being discovered and opened.

This shows the bolt on one side.

I found that I couldn't get the socket and torque wrench onto one of the bolts so the 16mm ring spanner was used to tighten this one.

This shows the metal work installed.

 

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This is the photo I wanted to show you of the holes being opened up through the underseal

 

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So that's the mechanical work done.
Refitting was the reverse of removal with no issues encountered.
Good luck!

 

[Argyll]

Impressive post - well done. Takes some effort and patience to post about a big job like that.

 

[Exmilade]

Thanks, had a few issues with the photos but I got them all posted some how.

 

[HiTec]

Thank you for this guide!! Few question. Where do you locate tow bar control box? Photo of that? I Bought used tow bar and control unit and I dont have that cable which goes from box to tow hook. Any idea where I can purchase it?

 

[Exmilade]

To Hitec
If you go to page 1 of this thread and Internal Trim Removal section, the last photo shows the left hand internal trim panel removed, ie it shows the inner wing area effectively. I cable tied the control box in this area that is recessed.
As regards the cable you speak about, I have no ideas I'm afraid.

 

[HiTec]

Note to everybody with diesel engine. There is AdBlue container on the way of installation but you can handle it. Just press green buttons and pull.